In November, Jeremy's dad, Howard, came to meet Baby Kaaj and visited for three weeks. During his stay, the four of us toured for two weeks around New Zealand's South Island. Our first stop was the seaside village of Kaikoura. This spot on the north east coast is known for crayfish (to eat) and whales (to watch). Although we in fact did neither, our visit was no less memorable.
Jeremy had pre-arranged all our lodging, and I didn't know what sort of place he'd found for us in Kaikoura. I was amazed when we pulled up to a tiny rustic wood house, surrounded by gardens, set in the midst of green fields--the ocean on one horizon, mountains on the other.
Called the Artist's Retreat, the two-story cottage had been converted from a barn into a quaint hideaway, which had previously served as the owner's personal art studio.
Artist's Retreat
View Toward the Sea
View Toward the Mountains
Living Room
Massive Barn Beams
Deck Cafe
The Artist's Retreat was an adventure in itself. Besides the rustic and whimsical cottage decor, the grounds were full of gardens and animals, including a goldfish pond, a lamb, a goat, two pigs, a white donkey, some cows, and a puppy.
On our first morning there, Jeremy and Howard left very early for a bird-watching boat trip. I was pleased to sleep in with Kaaj and enjoy a relaxed breakfast. Jeremy and Howard watched the sun rise over the water. With the boat and knowledgeable captain to themselves, they gaped over the massive albatross and other sea birds. Jeremy was able to add nine new species to his list of birds sighted in New Zealand.
Birds at Sunrise
Unnerving Stare of the Salvin's Albatross
The highlight of our Kaikoura experience--we all agreed--was the afternoon walk we took to a nearby waterfall. After winding along a stream through a green and tangly forest, we arrived to a waterfall spilling into a nearly circular pool. This was a lovely scene in itself, but we gasped when we realized what was happening. The pool was alive with seal pups--swimming, swooping, arching, jumping, splashing. It was a watery circle of constant graceful motion. Three of them played together and nipped each other with their tiny teeth, just a few feet from where we stood. The seal pups had swum quite a ways up the stream from the ocean for perhaps no other reason than to play in the pool. We watched in awe for several minutes before turning back.
Enchanted Pool
That evening, clouds hovered near the mountains, glowing pink in the setting sun, and the Southern Cross sparkled outside our window.
Wide-angle photos by Howard. Other photos by Jeremy and Marisa.
