photos by Howard and Jeremy
And now the last stop on our South Island tour: We left from Franz Josef, heading for the lakeside town of Cromwell. As usual, there was a birding expedition incorporated into our day...
When we passed through this area in May, Jeremy had tried to locate a place called Murphy's Beach--allegedly a prime spot for viewing the Fiordland crested penguin. However, the place was more secret than Jeremy had realized, and he even angered a park ranger by daring to inquire about the location of this beach. But after asking some friends for better directions, Jeremy made a second attempt. Driving along the coast road, he scanned for a break or path in the thick vegetation. At one spot, we saw a man at his SUV parked on the side. This was a clue. Jeremy stopped, and the man told him this was indeed the trail head for Murphy's Beach.
Coastal Road
Noticing the man's entire family--including the toddlers and grandparents--emerging from the woods, we assumed we'd have no struggle carrying Kaaj to the beach. However, heading down the path, we encountered heavy underbrush, slippery slopes, small sink holes, more than one stream crossing, washouts, mud, and an often indiscernible trail. At last we emerged from the woods onto a beautiful and secluded beach with complex rock formations and brilliant water.
Murphy's Beach at Last
Almost immediately, Jeremy and Howard spotted a Fiordland crested penguin heading up out of the surf. We walked the length of the beach, and, on the way back, saw three more penguins coming ashore--a great birding success.
Fiordland Crested Penguin Comes Ashore
Watching the Penguins
Our Family
Jeremy had another walk planned, but it was getting late, so we decided to push on to Cromwell. On the way, we enjoyed the views, despite clouds that veiled the lakes and mountains.
Cloudy Scenes
It was late by the time we reached Cromwell. We stopped in town for groceries and then found our lodging--a vacation home ("bach") next to Lake Dunstan, belonging to a lady named Debbie from our church in Dunedin. We cooked some dinner and crashed.
The next day, we took a slow pace. Jeremy and Howard spent the morning looking for grebes on the lake. Later, we explored the neighborhood and town. Lake Dunstan is a man-made reservoir. The creation of this lake in 1992 flooded the original town center. Some of the buildings were moved to higher ground to create a refurbished "Old Cromwell Town."
Cromwell Bach
Lake Dunstan
Old Cromwell Town
We enjoyed a snack at the cafe and then walked all the way to the main town for groceries. It was a hot day. In the evening, we relaxed in the living room and thought back on all the sights and adventures of our trip. We agreed that the pool of seal pups was a top highlight.
The next morning, it was time to head back home to Dunedin. We stopped in Lawrence for Coke and chips, and at Lake Waihola to look for birds of course. This marked the end of our last official tour during our residency in New Zealand, and the beginning of the long-dreaded process of selling our belongings and reducing our household to four bags.
Heading Home
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